Two nights, tons of memories. A weekend in the Keweenaw that didn’t feel like work; it felt like exactly what we needed.
There are trips you remember. And then there are trips that change you a little. For us, this Keweenaw Peninsula weekend was the latter. What started as a short two-night stay turned into one of the most refreshing and joy-filled adventures we’ve taken, made even sweeter by sharing it together. From lakeside cabins and surprise waterfalls to deep belly laughs and quiet Nordic spa moments under the stars, this trip didn’t feel like work—even though it technically was. It felt like permission to slow down, to breathe in the Upper Peninsula air, and to just be.
Whether it’s your first time in Michigan’s Keweenaw or your tenth, this story is proof: some places find their way into your heart and never really leave.
Friday: Scenic Drives, Summer Bites & Waterfall Magic
We kicked off the weekend with our usual Kwik Trip pit stop in Ironwood for coffee, snacks, and road trip essentials. Our first attempt at fishing was at Military Hills Roadside Park, but in typical Kozlowski luck, the Ontonagon River was chocolate milk. Still, the hills in the area were stunning and the clean bathrooms were a win.
Continuing on, we made a detour to Chassell for the 75th Annual Strawberry Festival; an Upper Peninsula tradition that’s been bringing folks together since 1949. We first caught wind of it through Visit Keweenaw’s Instagram and knew we couldn’t pass up a chance at the famous strawberry shortcake. On a sweltering summer day, that cool, whipped topping over sweet local berries and fluffy shortcake was exactly what we needed. Afterward, we wandered through the vendor sales, picking up a few treasures; a beautiful large, padded hot pad for hosting parties back home, a gift for my sister and new nephew from Jay, and some fresh bagels from a local baker. It was the perfect small-town summer stop.
We eventually rolled into Houghton, and right away, both Jay and I got Duluth vibes—a shipping town on the water, tucked into the hillside, with a bridge anchoring the whole view. It felt industrial in a charming way, and we both agreed: this is a city we want to come back to. Maybe in the fall.
For lunch, we stopped at The Library Restaurant & Brew Pub, located right on the waterfront. It’s a full-service restaurant that’s also home to Copper Country Brewing Company, which brews its beer on-site. Jay had a blueberry beer from their rotating taps, while I went for a golden ale from Athletic Brewing Co., one of several non-alcoholic options they offered—something I noticed again and again throughout the weekend. So many places up here are NA-friendly, with mocktails, zero-proof beers, and more. Jay’s burger hit the spot, and I went with the ahi tuna tacos, seared with a wasabi kick and delicious slaw that balanced the lakeside summer mood just right.
Next, we drove a few minutes to Nara Nature Park, a hidden gem for hikers, bikers, anglers, and winter adventurers alike. We fished along both the North and South Boardwalks, catching perch and panfish while walking the wooden pathways that snake through the wetlands and along the Portage Waterway. Across the road, the Nara Chalet serves as a hub for all seasons, complete with public bathrooms, showers, a fireplace lounge, and trail access. It’s one of those community spaces that locals clearly care about, and it shows.
Back in town, we explored the Houghton Waterfront Park, which has a huge playground, picnic spots, and a paved lakewalk trail with beautiful views of the Portage Lake Lift Bridge. Every Wednesday night in summer, they host free live music in the park, and we stumbled on a public art installation (colorful fish sculptures) that reminded me of the bird displays in Escanaba or the new Musky sculpture from Hayward’s Musky Fest.
By late afternoon, we made our way up the road to Hungarian Falls, a series of cascading drops tucked into a wooded preserve outside of Hubbell. There are technically three falls (Upper, Middle, and Lower), though the trails aren’t always marked clearly. I’ve seen a lot of waterfalls in my life, but this one made me cry. The way the light filtered through the trees, hitting the mist just right, it felt like something out of a fairytale. Jay and I just stood there, shoes soaked, fully present in a way I wish I could bottle up. Magic.
We arrived in Lac La Belle just in time to check into Wilderness Resort & Campground, where we stayed in Cabin B. It was the perfect home base: quiet, immaculately clean, and family-run with so much care. Our hosts gave us some great local suggestions, like checking out the Delaware Mine, which we made sure to do the next day. If you’re looking for a peaceful place to unwind with lake access and a remote feel, this spot nailed it.
Dinner took us to Lake Effect Bar & Grill in Copper Harbor, and let me tell you, this might’ve been our favorite meal of the trip. My Medora Burger (named after a nearby inland lake) was wild, stacked with flavor, topped with pickled onions and a tangy sauce that just worked. Jay ordered the Papa Bear Mac & Cheese, loaded with pulled chicken and baked to bubbly perfection. Our server was incredible: so kind, attentive, and just the kind of person that makes a great meal feel even better.
After dinner, we noticed that walking was the preferred way to get around town, so we decided to explore the Copper Harbor lakewalk and marina. We saw the Isle Royale Queen IV ferry at the dock and enjoyed a scoop of ice cream under a smoky orange sky from Scream ‘n Bean. Canada’s wildfire haze had started rolling in, turning the whole horizon into a moody watercolor painting.
We ended the night at Hunter’s Point Park, one of the top places in Copper Harbor to rock hunt, especially for agates and Yooperlites. We didn’t find any glowing rocks that night, but the peace and the view of the James R. Barker (my favorite freighter), lit up and sailing toward Duluth in the distance, made it a moment we won’t forget.
Saturday: Fish, Views, & Feels
We were up and at ’em Saturday for a 7 a.m. launch with Hooked Up Charter, run by Captain Steve out of Lac La Belle. The lake was calm with a slow east wind blowing on the surface of Lake Superior, giving it a little chop. Storms had split the peninsula to the north and the southeast. We were excited to be going after our last charter outing was cancelled due to weather. After a quiet start fishing shallow, Steve made the call to pull lines and head deeper. He knew exactly where to go, and not long after we reset, rods started going off. In under an hour, we’d limited out on lake trout. It was a blast.
But that wasn’t really the best part. Steve felt like a long-lost friend. From the second we stepped aboard, he had a calm, confident presence and a great sense of humor. We laughed, swapped stories, and learned so much just listening to him talk about the fishery and the surrounding area, like Bare Bluff and a coal freighter shipwreck outside the harbor. It felt like fishing with someone we’d known forever.
And he didn’t rush us. After we boxed our fish (15 pounds of beautiful lakers), we had time to take in some sights that would’ve otherwise taken us all day to reach on foot. Gull Rock Lighthouse sat like a sentinel in the haze just beyond where we fished, and Montreal Falls (normally a 10-mile round-trip hike) cascaded below a ridge as we drifted by in awe. Steve brought us to the perfect vantage points. It felt like a private tour of the Keweenaw’s easternmost coast, just for us.
Back at the docks, we headed straight to Bear Belly Pit Stop, a camper’s dream tucked just steps from the launch. It’s equal parts restaurant, camp store, souvenir shop, and lifesaver. Their ribs and mac & cheese combo was exactly what we needed after the morning on the water. We even spotted a few Coast Guard guys eating at a picnic table, which seemed like a solid endorsement.
Inside, Bear Belly has everything from ice cream to locally brewed beer, firewood, toiletries, snacks, and gear for anyone staying nearby. Whether you forgot something or just want to grab a treat, it’s one of those places that has it all.
Next, we headed up Mount Bohemia to ride the scenic chairlift to the top overlook—one of the best ways to see just how vast and wild this area really is. From the summit, we could see Lac La Belle, Gratiot Lake, and Lake Superior all at once. It was peaceful, surprisingly not windy, and a great ride with a view. It truly made us realize how small we are. My camera battery died at the top (of course), but I snapped a few on my phone. Honestly, some views are better when you’re not looking at them through a lens. Here’s the one photo I got.. doesn’t do it justice. You’ll have to check out my Instagram highlight for that imagery.
Our next stop was the historic Delaware Mine, one of the few Copper Country mines still open for public exploration. This self-guided tour drops you 100 feet underground into the remnants of a once-bustling 1800s mining operation. Most of the lower levels are now flooded, but the main shaft and tunnels give you a chilling, awe-inspiring glimpse of what life was like down here for the miners who came seeking copper and grit.
But what makes this place so memorable isn’t just the history. It’s the personality. The late Tom Poynter, who opened the mine tour in 1977 and ran it with his wife Lani for decades, became a local legend for his love of animals—especially skunks. Over the years, he adopted and cared for pet skunks, including the famously friendly Snickers and Oreo, who often greeted guests and became beloved mascots of the mine experience.
Today, although the skunks have since been relocated to a rescue following Tom’s passing in 2023, they’re still very much part of the mine’s legacy. From skunk-themed signage to souvenir merch and tour guide references, their presence lives on. It’s a nod to Tom’s whimsical, welcoming nature that made this place so special. Even without the animals onsite, you still feel the warmth and storytelling spirit of the Delaware Mine. It’s more than just a hole in the ground; it’s a place infused with character and care.
After a quick nap back at the cabin, we took a quiet detour to Haven Falls, a charming little roadside waterfall just minutes from our door. It’s tucked along the side of the road in Lac La Belle, framed by a short bridge and picnic area. Quick, beautiful, and easy to access, it’s definitely worth the stop.
Dinner that night was at Fitzgerald’s Restaurant in Eagle River, a spot we’d heard so much about. It’s known for smoked meats, elevated dishes, and an impressive beer and wine list. It was packed when we arrived, but we lucked out with seats at the bar. Our bartender went above and beyond crafting a mocktail that made me feel like I was sipping a cocktail at a fancy lounge. I ordered the brussels sprout salad, and Jay went with a brisket special that nearly fell apart on the fork. Fitz lived up to the hype. The food was excellent.
After dinner, we crossed the road and explored Eagle River Falls, a thunderous flow tucked behind a little roadside overlook. The golden hour light made the spray shimmer. We also rock hunted along the beach in front of the Fitzgerald and made a note to come back after dark.
But first, we closed the night with a long, slow evening at the Nordic Spa at Mount Bohemia. From around 9 p.m. until nearly midnight, we soaked, steamed, and sweated our way through their extensive sauna circuit. I loved the Himalayan salt sauna the most. It was hot, dry, and made me feel brand new. The salt showers were another favorite. Jay preferred the rainforest mist room, and we both marveled at how many options there were. Cold plunges, hot tubs, dry saunas, a cocktail bar, fire pits, pizza oven, and even an ice cream window—it felt like stepping into a Scandinavian forest retreat. Admittedly, I did not bring my camera here and barely took video – while documenting my travels is required, this is a relaxing place for many and I didn’t want to alarm or disrupt anyone’s peace.. especially while in bathing suits! You’ll just have to see this place for yourself!
But even that wasn’t our ending. Before we turned in, we returned to the beach one last time. Jay and I turned on our UV headlamps, and maybe twenty minutes in, I found it: my first Yooperlite. A small, glowing rock blinking back at me in the sand. I laughed out loud and held it up to Jay, and I couldn’t stop laughing the rest of the night. It was finally time for bed.
Sunday: Saying Goodbye
We started our morning with a visit to the Keweenaw Snow Gauge, a massive roadside display on Highway 41 just south of Delaware. It shows the total seasonal snowfall the area receives each winter, and it’s no joke. Last season, the Keweenaw clocked in at around 270 inches of snow. Standing next to the pole with its color-coded yearly markers was both humbling and impressive. It really drives home just how wild and beautiful winters are up here, and why this region is so beloved by snowmobilers and backcountry skiers.
From there, we made our way into Calumet to stop by the Visit Keweenaw Welcome Center (hi friends)! Even though it was early, the 24/7 self-serve lobby was open and stocked with brochures, maps, and local guides. Whether you’re visiting last-minute or planning ahead, it’s an easy and welcoming place to get your bearings. We were especially impressed by how many trail guides, historical pamphlets, and printed event calendars they had on hand. Definitely worth popping into if you’re anywhere near the area.
We ended our trip where it started, back in Houghton, this time for one last breakfast at Suomi Restaurant. It’s a cozy, Finnish-American spot that’s been serving up homestyle breakfasts for decades. I ordered the bacon breakfast bagel with crispy hashbrowns, and Jay got a hearty scramble with their famous cinnamon swirl toast on the side. But the real treat was the pannukakku—a traditional Finnish oven pancake that’s thick, custardy, and slightly sweet. We shared a slice and sipped our coffee slowly, soaking in the last few moments before heading home.
It was the kind of breakfast that hits different after a trip like this: equal parts warm, nostalgic, and satisfying.
A Love Letter to the Keweenaw—and to Us
This trip was never about checking off a list. Aside from our charter with Hooked Up Charter, everything else was unscripted. We followed instinct. Stopped when something called to us. Wandered instead of rushed. And in doing so, we didn’t just make memories, we found rhythm again.
Somewhere between lake trout and waterfalls, shoreline walks and sauna steam, Jay and I settled into something that felt like us—the version that exists outside of daily chaos, opposite work schedules, and to-do lists. The quiet kind of closeness that doesn’t need words, just shared little looks and whispered “I love yous” in a hot tub.
The Upper Peninsula has become more than a destination for us. It’s a place we return to when we need to remember who we are, together. And this trip, this short, spontaneous, perfect weekend, didn’t feel like work—even though it technically was. It felt like a love letter. To Michigan’s north. To wild places. And to each other.
So if you’re waiting for a sign to go on a trip north, this is it. Whether you’re sharing it with someone or showing up for yourself, let the Keweenaw meet you where you’re at and give you something real to carry home.
We came home even more in love—with the place, the peace, and each other.
Plan your trip: Visit Keweenaw
Charter fishing: Hooked Up Charters
Relaxation destination: Mount Bohemia Nordic Spa
Thanks for reading – until next time.
Sarah
