A cozy Valentine’s weekend on the ice chasing walleyes, digging through blizzards, and finding small-town charm, in Michigan’s Upper Peninsula.
Over Valentine’s Day weekend, my husband Jay and I packed up the truck and headed north to work with Escanaba, Michigan for a few days of fishing, exploring, and soaking in all the charm this Upper Peninsula destination has to offer. This wasn’t our first time on Little Bay de Noc, but it was our first time visiting as part of a tourism promotion — and with everything we experienced, it definitely won’t be our last.
Thursday: Gearing Up and Getting the Local Scoop
We arrived Thursday mid-afternoon and used the day to prepare. First stop: Beavers Lures, a woman-owned small business run by my longtime friend Katelyn Beaver. Not only did we stock up on some of her hand-crafted lures (which we ran all weekend), but we also got some insider info on current ice conditions and fish movement. Highly recommend checking out her website to stock up if you’re heading over that way for open water or ice fishing.
The rest of the day was spent scouting about five different access points across Little Bay de Noc to safely launch our snowmobile at Ludington Park, No-See-Um Creek, Ford River, Gladstone Park, Kipling, and checking out a historical lighthouse; The Sand Point Lighthouse. A little groundwork on day one helped us feel more confident with fishing smarter the rest of the weekend.
We also swung by Blades Bait and Tackle, where the staff helped us narrow down our access point options. One particular spot we were considering was strongly advised against — and thank goodness we listened. A fellow angler ended up going through the ice at that very launch later that weekend. Scary stuff, and a reminder that local knowledge is invaluable when fishing unfamiliar water.
Friday: Finding Eaters in the North Bay
Friday morning we hit the ice early and stayed focused on the northern part of the bay — near Gladstone and Kipling. These areas gave us the most consistent action of the trip, mostly landing eater-sized walleyes on tip-ups. It felt good to start strong and build confidence in our setup and locations. We fished both morning and afternoon and connected with a few other anglers in the area, all reporting similar results.
We also tried jigging periodically but only landed two fish that way the entire weekend — tip-ups were definitely doing the heavy lifting.
Saturday: Big Fish and a Moment to Remember
Saturday morning, we headed out with our friends Katelyn and Lucas. That’s when the magic happened — Katelyn landed a giant 30” walleye, and it was such an exciting moment to witness. That fish was the kind of memory that sticks with you and made the whole weekend feel like a win.
After the morning, we went to replenish our bait bucket at Bay View Bait and Tackle. They’re conveniently located just down the road and around the corner from Terrace. Not only do they have a full bait and tackle shop, they also have a motel! The shop owner was a wonderful woman who was very helpful and prices were very reasonable!
We spent the rest of Saturday working our way farther south on the bay in search of more big fish. The further south we went, the fewer marks we saw — but the fish we did find were noticeably larger. Our overall takeaway? North Bay held more numbers, while the South Bay offered more quality. We later found out there was a tournament happening that weekend, which added a lot of pressure and may have impacted the bite. Nearly every angler we spoke to described a similar challenge.
Sunday: Blizzard Conditions and Stubborn Spirits
Sunday morning rolled around, and even with the weather turning full-on wild — wind screaming from the north, snow blowing sideways, and visibility low — we weren’t ready to quit. The blizzard didn’t stop us from giving it one last shot.
That morning, we managed to catch one pike and missed three more flags. The snow was blowing so hard, we had to start digging out what we ended up calling “ice dams” just to shield our tip-ups from being buried. Every ten minutes, Jay and I took turns checking and clearing snow off each set — otherwise, the flags wouldn’t even trip. It was wet, cold, and kind of chaotic… but also weirdly fun in a way only anglers would understand.
Eventually, we packed it in, grabbed a final pasty from Grams on our way out of town (as one does), and stopped for a quick swing through Island Casino — where, for the record, we had absolutely no luck. But the trip? Totally worth it.
Terrace Bay Hotel: Comfort, Convenience, and Killer Cocktails
Our home base for the weekend was Terrace Bay Hotel, and honestly? It had everything we needed. The room was clean, spacious, and overlooked the frozen beauty of Little Bay de Noc — a view that greeted us every morning and reminded us why we love the Upper Peninsula so much.
After long, cold days on the ice, lake access right from the hotel made coming and going super easy. And one underrated perk? The big walk-in showers. They were lifesavers for thawing out our augers and drying gear after slushy, snowy, totally soaked sessions on the ice. Every ice angler knows the struggle, and Terrace Bay had our backs.
BIGGBY Coffee, located right inside the hotel, quickly became a staple of our trip. Their Butter Bears and breakfast sandwiches were out of this world — the perfect start to our mornings on the bay and again later for our essential midday nap-fuel.
Before dinner, we kicked back in the Fresh Coast Lounge — a super cozy spot with a fun vibe, perfect for unwinding. Jay sampled a few incredible old fashioneds from their craft cocktail menu, and I tried several of their mocktails, which were just as thoughtfully crafted and full of flavor. Their happy hour special made it an even better stop.
For dinner, we headed to Freshwater Tavern, just a short walk from our room. We split the ahi tuna appetizer to start — fresh, flavorful, and perfectly plated. I ordered the salmon as my main (10/10), and Jay had his first-ever Wagyu steak, which definitely lived up to the hype.
From the views to the food to the little comforts that made the fishing grind a little easier, Terrace Bay Hotel really was a one-stop shop — and we already know where we’ll be booking next time.
Escanaba’s Small-Town Charm
Fishing aside, Escanaba has a ton of heart. One of my favorite spontaneous moments was grabbing a sled from the Ludington Park Sled Library and taking a few runs down the hill — pure joy and totally free fun. It’s little touches like that that make a community stand out.
A few of our other favorite local spots to check out if you’re planning a visit:
• Dew Drop Family Restaurant – If you’re looking for a true Escanaba staple, Dew Drop Family Restaurant is it. This cozy, no-frills spot delivers the kind of hearty, comforting meals that hit the spot after a long day on the ice. I went with their Smokehouse Mac and Cheese—creamy, rich, and loaded with smoky flavor that warmed me right to the core. Jay ordered the Mushroom Swiss Burger, which came piled high and perfectly cooked—juicy, cheesy, and downright delicious. It’s the kind of place where the service feels like home and the food reminds you why small-town diners are always worth the stop.
• Oven King Pizza – After a long day chasing fish and fresh air, we were more than ready for a solid meal—and Oven King Pizza absolutely delivered. On Katelyn’s recommendation, we went all in on their Meatza Pizza, and let’s just say… there wasn’t a single slice left. The sauce was out of this world—flavorful, tangy, and just the right amount of sweet. And the dough? Next-level. Perfectly chewy with a crispy edge that held up to all that meat and cheese. We crushed a large between the two of us and didn’t regret a bite. Oven King definitely earned its spot on our Escanaba must-eat list.
Final Thoughts
Was the fishing easy? Not really. Was it worth every second? Absolutely. From tip-up trench digging to unforgettable catches, this Valentine’s Day weekend was one for the books. Even with the pressure from a tournament and unpredictable conditions, Little Bay de Noc showed up in its own way — and so did the Escanaba community.
Between the small-town charm, delicious food, and stories we’re still telling, we’re already dreaming up our return trip. This time? Open water, warm weather, and chasing new memories from the boat.
If you’re planning your own trip, take some notes, check out Beavers Lures, and don’t sleep on this gem of a fishing destination. All of our travel spots are linked! You can learn more or start planning your adventure at www.visitescanaba.com or by following Visit Escanaba on social media.
